In a tight show of only 27 looks, designer Nicola Formichetti served up a collection of feminine, cocoon-like silhouettes. Slick was the word. The gentle rounded shoulders and softer skirts, in soft grey, blue and peach, evolved away from the angular, insectoid-obsession that's been almost haunting Mugler's recent collections. It was a welcome change, which made for a ladylike vibe - in line with this season's trend. Contrasts, such as soft peach fur on champagne satin, made one gentle look sparkle. The odd geometric print — used sparingly — added the signature futuristic edge, as did neat bonnets on the heads.