How to get back in one piece

An Emilio Pucci Spring/Summer 2009 piece. Photo / AP

Hemlines may rise during times of economic uncertainty, but this summer there is more fabric involved in swimwear than we've seen for a long time. After years of the string bikini's tyrannical poolside reign, the one-piece swimsuit is finally enjoying its moment back in the sun as a fashionable holiday wardrobe staple.

Evidence of this turnaround on the summer catwalks was conclusive - though you might expect a classic one-piece from Chanel or Marni, when flesh-flashing labels such as DSquared and Julien Macdonald start covering their models' midriffs you know there must be a sea change taking place.

Don't be fooled, however, into thinking this trend is necessarily demure or flattering. Though there are some generously cut retro 1950s styles on offer, 2008's crop of cossies are unashamedly sexy, with racy prints and cutaway styles that make them a more daring choice than the average bikini.

What's more, the swimsuit has an elegance that a bikini can never quite match. As Melissa Odabash, whose swimwear designs can be found in the suitcases of stars such as Kate Moss and Elle Macpherson, puts it, "One-pieces have an allure simply because they are less obvious - covering up a little can be very sexy."

The secret to wearing a one-piece well, according to Odabash, is all about a judicious choice of cut for your body and some savvy accessorising. Once you've consulted our round-up of the season's key trends and how to style them, both of those tasks should be a breeze. All that's left for you to do is add water. The key looks are:

Cutaway

If a cutaway swimsuit instantly makes you think of WAGs in beach mode, rest assured that it has the potential to be the height of chic. Symmetrical cutaway panels create the illusion of a slimmer waist, although if you are going to accentuate a particular area of flesh in this way, it will need to be reasonably toned. Neutral shades save it from looking tarty, but you'll still need to add earthy accessories to ensure it looks more boho than Soho.

Print

Emilio Pucci's iconic swirly prints remain a classic, but Matthew Williamson is making his own mark at the Italian design house with some striking prints in his trademark vivid colours. If brights aren't your thing, kill two trends with one swimsuit and opt for an animal print to nail the safari look (another big story on the runways). Pair with plain accessories to keep things contemporary rather than Costa del Sol.

Asymmetric