Belinda Henley visits a property that offers opportunities for physical exertion and relaxation in equal measure.
Nestled in two and a half thousand acres of 800 year old native forest, Treetops Lodge & Estate is about as hidden away as it's possible to get. It's less than half an hour's drive from Rotorua, but the final approach down a gravel road and then a long winding driveway through paddocks and native bush makes it feel a world away from civilisation. And it's a feeling you hold onto the entire time you are there.
The stunning property was bought by businessman John Sax many years ago and helped him fulfil a vision he'd had as a youngster: to build a self-sustaining "eco lodge" incorporating the things he was most passionate about - good food, hospitality and the great outdoors.
Right from the start John saw the potential in developing the property as a genuine hunting lodge, modelled on the game reserves which are big business in South Africa. Treetops is one of the few places in New Zealand where guests can go out onto the property with a guide to hunt and kill one of the many animals that roam there, among them various breeds of deer and water buffalo.
To get a sense of the size and scale of the estate along with the creatures that inhabit it, farm manager Dave Goodman gives us a tour in his four wheel drive. For any first time visitors this is an absolute must do. It is rugged, stunning terrain, and we go out at dusk when many of the animals are coming out to graze. We see red stags, sika deer, buffalo, wild pigs, feral goats, ducks and pheasants, rabbits and possums.
It is the accessibility of the land and the wildlife that sees tourists come from all over the world, to shoot and take home a "trophy head", but the privilege doesn't come cheap. Some of the more sought after animals can cost upwards of forty thousand dollars to shoot. They are then packed up and shipped back to the hunter's home country to be stuffed and displayed.
Photos: Treetops Lodge & Estate
Visitors can hunt for many of the animals that roam at Treetops. Photo / Supplied
If hunting is not your thing, there is plenty more on offer. There are a number of stunning (if slightly intrepid) walks through native, unspoilt forest. Our favourite was to the Bridal Veil Falls, a forty-minute climb into the heart of the forest.
The property is also home to streams and ponds packed with trout, and there are opportunities to partake in archery, clay bird shooting and horse trekking.
The main building of the lodge is as impressive as the grounds around it. Lined with huge wooden beams and comfy furniture, it houses an impressive collection of animal heads and is dominated by an enormous stone fireplace.
Bathed in sunlight during the day, in the evening, with the fire lit, it is warm and welcoming - a great place to enjoy pre-dinner drinks and canapés.
The guests villas are secluded, each is surrounded by bush and has its own private lawn and open fire.
But the best bit is the food.
Guests can either dine on their own or at a long table with others.
We ate with a delightful couple from Arizona who had been doing the rounds of the New Zealand lodges and had already stayed at a number of our most exclusive accommodation options in both the South and North islands. However they were blown away by the welcoming, unpretentious feel of Treetops.
A day earlier, they had caught a trout in Lake Taupo and proudly presented it to the chef, who whisked it away to be prepared for their dinner. It was one of the highlights of their trip.
A salmon dish from Treetops' menu. Photo / Supplied
While Treetops is undeniably luxurious, with both the guest suites and villas stunningly outfitted, it is also relaxed and comfortable enough to make you feel at home.
Possibly, that is one of Treetops' biggest points of difference: it's a luxury lodge where you can dine next to a Saudi Prince or Russian billionaire while wearing your jeans.
Our meal was a succession of courses, featuring duck, lamb and venison - all from the estate. A crab apple sorbet was a perfect refresher between courses and the tamarillo pie to finish was a good balance of sweet and savoury. Particularly worth mentioning is the main course, which consisted of venison served with a rich chocolate sauce - as delicious as it was unusual.
Chef Rhys Thornton has worked at top hotel chains and lodges both in New Zealand and internationally. He loves the fact that at Treetops he is encouraged to come out of the kitchen and meet his diners, discussing and sharing recipes with them.
A forty-minute climb into the heart of the forest leads visitors to the Bridal Veil Falls. Photo / Supplied
Treetops' new Estate to Plate concept also offers guests the chance to get involved in the process, exploring the estate and foraging for ingredients before watching and learning as the chefs prepare a meal.
As Dave gives us a tour of the gardens he laments the damage a pheasant has done to some of his vegetable crops.
"That pheasant will be on your dinner plate soon," he laughs.
And that sums up the Treetops philosophy, really: luxury that doesn't take itself too seriously.