Salmon, we know, is good for us because it is full of healthy fish oils, so we can be thankful that it is readily available.
The fact that it is a popular choice for sashimi, the Japanese dish of thinly sliced raw fish, reminds us that when we cook salmon, it is best to leave it a little underdone.
This week, we are pan-frying salmon steaks and topping them with a sauce based on coriander, a herb that some people find unappealing. If you are one of them, make the sauce using only parsley. Obviously, the flavour will be different, but it will still be delicious.
Serves 4
3 Tbsps pine nuts
2 cloves garlic, part-crushed, peeled and chopped
Half a small red chilli, de-seeded and chopped
2 anchovies, rinsed and chopped
1 cup loosely packed coriander leaves
Half a cup loosely packed flatleaf parsley leaves
sea salt cracked black pepper
3 Tbsps grapeseed oil
3 Tbsps extra-virgin olive oil
juice of half a lemon
2 Tbsps vegetable oil
4 salmon steaks
Heat a frypan and add pine nuts. Cook, tossing often, until they just begin to colour. Watch constantly because they burn easily. With a mortar and pestle, a food processor, blender or a very sharp, heavy knife, mash them to a paste with the garlic, chilli, anchovies and herbs, then season, and mash further. Place in a bowl, drizzle in the two oils, stirring continuously, then the lemon juice.
Heat the vegetable oil in a frypan and cook the salmon steaks for two or three minutes on each side, turn off the heat and put aside to rest in the hot pan for another minute or so. It is best slightly undercooked. Serve on warmed plates and spoon the salsa over the top.
Wine match
The strongly herbaceous sauce dictates which wine to pair with this dish, and that leads us in the direction of sauvignon blanc. The 2009s will soon be hitting shop shelves but, in the meantime, there are plenty of 2008 examples available. After a year in tank and bottle, the assertive acid edge these had in their extreme youth has softened a little, making them more approachable.
Surplus fruit from the 2008 vintage has led to many new labels appearing on the market.
Two Tracks Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2008 has a bronze medal under its belt, and has a savoury bouquet and a sweet-edged, simple yet refreshing flavour. Lobster Reef Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2008 is from the Cape Campbell wine company, and has more of the region's typical ``sweaty'' character on the nose. It's clean, fresh and instantly appealing, with crisp acids backing a reasonable amount of fruit depth. Both wines are designed to sell at around the $15-$17 mark, but may well be specialled at major outlets.
02 07 2009
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